TS 967 
.M78 
Copy 1 




THE GLEANINGS 

— OF— 





BT 



H. MONTGOMERY^ 




\I?1RU fst, 1879. 



COPYRIGHT 
1883 By H. Montgomery, 
East Saginaw, Michigan* 






'' \ 



THE GLEANINGS 

—OF— 

T-A.3srnsri2sra- 

— BY— 

{/ 

H. MONTGOMERY. 



M:^RCH Ut, ]879. 



1^ Argus Print, Chesaning, Mich. 



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m MEG Em mmi. mmi mum, 



First put the hides into the pool (a vat of water), soak 
from twelve to ihirtj-fiix hours, according to the dry spots 
and blood in the hides, then take out and split up the back, 
then take them on the tanner's beam and flesh off all the 
superfluous flesh, pnd if soaked enough are ready for the 
lime. 

Take eighty lbs. of lime and run it ofl' in a vat of water, 
plnrge it up good and put in sixty sides, handle every day 
80 they will lime even, after they have been in twenty-four 
hours slack forty lbs. of lime to strengthen them up'with, 
and after they have been in forty eight hours strengthen 
them up again. It takes from five to eight days to lime, ac- 
cording to the weight of the hide. I generally leave tliem 
in eight days, as I find I can make better leather than to 
lime them any quicker. When the hair slips easy take them 
on the tanner's beam and unhair them, put them into the 
hide wheel and wash them thoroughly by letting clear water 
run into them. Now they are ready for the bait. 



THE BAIT. 

Take two and one-half bushels of heD manure and soak it, 
put it into a vat. If you can put stoam into the vat to warm 
it up do 80, and if ycu can they will be ready to work in 
twelve hoars. If not, it will take longer, from twenty-four 
to thirty-six hoars, according to the weather. If j^ou have 
no wheel to wheel them, they will have to be taken out and 
stoned thoroughly. Then they will have to be worked twice 
over the tanner's beam, so they will be all clean and clear 
for the liquor. That is one stoning and two good workings. 

TO COLOR THE HIDES. 

Suspend the hides on sticks and let them hang down in 
the liquor, take a slat eight feet long (the length of the vat), 
one inch thick and four inches wide, take four copper naii« 
and an old flat file (as it is belter than a hannner for thi-* 
business), start at the roots of the tail to drive the first nail, 
then the other three equal distances apart, ihe wholw length 
of the back, next prepare the I'qaor for color, for the first 
liquor a vat two thirds full of water, take fifty lbs. of Japonica 
and melt it by steam, take one pail of Pyroligneoun Acid 
and put into this vat, one pail of t*alt and sixty lbs. ol oak 
bark, take an oil barrel and make a leach out of ir, take an 
auger and bore a hole near the bottom of the barrel so that 
when the bark is leached you can draw the plug out and let 
the liquor run in the vat, then put in one puil (»f rye flour, 
melt and strengthen with twenty-five lbs. of Japonica ever^ 
other day on the ha» g for 8 or 10 dayH,then lake il»f ni off itie 
hang and handle and Htrengthen them every ihird da}. Tniw 
will tan heavy barresa leather in forty dayn. When lainiud 
take them up and skive them, then take them on ihe curr^- 
iug table and scour th« m on both hiden with ihe stone acd 
^licker, then hang up to saming, when samied take down a>.tJ 
temper for Htuffing, net the grain side firt^t and oil it, ihen 
turn it over and set it on the flesh side wiih a flicker, itjen 
take your stuffiing and stuff it, put the stuffing on one third 
aft thick as «vhat the leather is and hang u,» to dry. When 
dry they are ready to black on the grain, f write this as an 
explanation for new beginners. It is not necessary to writ© 
all this for men that work at the tanning business. 



The leather is now ready for sigging. Take a sig brush 
and appl> the sig to the leather on the grain side till 
thoroughly sigged and grease all cut su as to be ready for 
blacking, then apply the grain blacking with a brush. When 
struck in. oil it to set the blacjk. Pack on the floor grain to 
grain till yon put down a daj*a work ready for setting, then 
lake the boltoro sides first and commence to set, put it on 
the table and rub with a hard piece of tallow, then stone it 
over with a fine stone, then slick it over hard with a heavy 
slicker, then have a pan of two-thirds tallow and one-third 
oil, hot, give them a coat of that and hang them up to dry. 
When dry they are ready for finishing. 

TO FINISH. 

Take them down and slick them on the flesh side first, 
then clean your table good and slick them off with a ^mooth 
slicker on the grain side, then b»'U8h them with a good stiff 
scouring brush and wipe them off with a woolen cloth or a 
piece of oakum, then they are finished. Tan Upper and 
Calf the same way, and it will look like oak-tanned leather, 
as one lb. ot Dark to each side of leather colors it like oak. 
This bark can be bought already ground in sacks at the 
wholesale druggists for 2^ or 3 cents per lb. To finish calf 
skins and upper it will be necessary to hire a practical 
currier until you get an insight of the busiuess for a few 
days. 

'J^he above is merely an introduction for tanning without 
bark in the Western States or Territories. I have used it 
with success, making harness leather that sold for 42 cents 
per lb., and gave good satisfaction. 

TO MAKE STUFFING. 

Melt 5"0ur tallow over a hIhw fire, have it cool enough to 
bold the hand in it, tberi add as much -jil as there is tallow, 
if tie tallow is g^od; if not, less oil. In winter more oii than 
in summer. Slir till it is cool. 

TO MAKE SIG. 

Take five lbs, cf Sal Soda, melt and put into a barrel of 



soft waltr, pal in l^o^wuod ehips onoigh to make a good 
strong color ^^ hen lieutel up, lake u sig brush a,n(J apply- i\\'\^ 
Lo ihH leMihfT or» Jhograiii till ihoroughly 8igge<i and the 
gM;a»-e:ill cuL so as to be ready for the blacking, then apply 
I he v^rain blacking with a brush. 

GBAIN BLACKING. 

\\ Ih. blue stone ccperas, 4 nz. muriatic acid, 4 oz. Prussian 
blue pulverized, 1 lb. of powered nut gall, put all together 
and add 3 gallons or water, b hI ur»til all is diss')lved, aid 20 
lbs. of iron tilings, till the barrel with Water and it is ready 
for use. 

EXTRA HARNESS BLACKING. 

1 bush, of salt, 10 lbs. of fresh iron filings, 1 pt. oil of 
vitrei, 40 gals, water. After standing ten days add 2 oz. 
Saleratus. Stir frequently. 

TO MAKE OIL BLAJKING FOR CALF SKINS. 

1 lb. lamp black, take 2^ gals, of curriers' oil, put the lamp 
black in a pail and put oil en )ugh on it to dampen it and 
mix it fine, with no lumps in it, then melt 4 oz. beeswax and 
put in the oil, then mix ail together and stir thoroughly, 
then put in ^ gal. ot good strong tan liquor to kejp the 
blacking from striking through, then smut them off clean and 
apply the size for finish. 

S/ZB FOR FINILHINQ, 

^Ib. of white glue, 1 qt. of currier's oil, 1 pt. of good soft 
soap, put the glue to soak in a six quart pan with water 
enough to cover it, mix the soap and oil together thoroughly, 
80 they will be well mixed, then melt the glue and mix all 
together, having the pan full when done. 

ANOTHER GOOD RECEIPT FCR F/yiSIIING. 

1 lb. of white glue, y bar of Babbitt's ssap, 4 oz. of Sperm 
City, 4 oz. baking soda, 4 oz. of beeswax, 1 qt. of linseed oii, 



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I lb. of tallow. Boil the^e all over a slow tire till well 
mixed. 

BEAUTIFUL BRO.WZE FOR LEATHER, 

Dissolve a little of the so-called insoluble aoalino violet in 
a little water, and bru"*h the solutioQ over the leather. After 
it dries repeat the process. 

FOR OIL BLACKING. 

\ lb. of sal soda, \ lb. of white j^lae, put these in a pan 
with 1 qt. of water, when soaked melt it, then take \ lb. 
beeswax, :^lb. resin, 1-4: lb. tallow, 1 qt. of oil, melt these and 
mix wiih the above when it is ready for use, mix with one- 
third flour or starch paste. 

TO TAN DEER SKINS, 

A"* there are many ways to tan deerskins, I will here give 
it in ihe simplest fortn. For each skin take a buckeii of 
water and put into it 1 q . of lime, mix the liquor at this 
ratio for your hkins, let ihem lay in it three or four days, 
ther) rinse \<\ clean water and hair and grain, now scour or 
j)()und in good soap suds fur half an hour, after which take 
white vitrol, alum and salt, 1 tablespoonful of each to a skin 
dissolve it in sufficient water to cover the skin, let them re- 
main 24 hours, wring out as drv as convenient, then spread 
on with a brush \ pt. of currier's oil and hang in the sun 
about two days, after which you will scour out the oil with 
soap suds and hang out again until perfectly dry, then pull 
and wojkthem uruil they are f^oft, the oil may he saved by 
pouring or takifig it from the top ol the suds if left to stand 
a e^horL time, the butt' color is giving by spreadinyj- ^U'lJow 
aciire event}' uvcr the surface of the tokiu when finished and 
rubbing it well with a brush. 

TO DYE LEA THER TELL O IV, 

Pi ric acid gives a g'»o I yellow without any mordant. It 
must bri used in very dilsite solutiv)n, and not warmei- than 
70 ' Fahr., so as not to penetrate the leather. 





A SUCGBISPUL TAN FOR PACK L:IT7E?\ STRING 
LEATHER AND THOROUGH BRAGES FOR COACHES. 

Take tqual parts of alum, ^'a'^ and Jiiponic<, melt tho 
ulum arid t^alt by themselves and the Japonica by itstdf. For 
one (jommon ealf t-kiu take ^ lb. of each wiih water enough 
to cover the t^kin, then meli in a eopper kettle. Use it at 
this ratio i-or all skins and hi ie«. Of course the heavier the 
skin the more it takes. It is \) >w read^ tor tanniriiJ:, and will 
tan ill from 12 to 24 hours, aeeoiding to strength and 
handlifig. You can tau anything with it, even to the (dioic -st 
of furs. This may seem simpie, but it fealiy cannot be 
beaten. It is called the ''Father of all Tans." It id'\^hat the 
famous Piiilbrook parks are tanned with, and they are called 
the best pack known. 

We are the originators of this tan and tanned it for Phil- 
brooks when he first started bis pack business m Racine, 
Wis. It is the best tan known for what it is recommended 
to tan, aa there is no acid in it. 

TJ TAN FURS OR SKINS 07 ANT KIND. 

Fjr six small skins: 1-4 lb, sulphate soda, 3 oz. sulphate 
poLash, 1-4 lb. alum, 1-4 lb, sulphur, \ lb. salt. 

For eigLt sheep skiLS or one robe double the amount. 

7 COLOR THE ^WOOL ON SHEEP SKINS RED. 

Dissolve one ounce of solferine in one-half pint of alcohol. 
Put this iu six pails of hot water. This will color the wool 
OD sixteen skins. 

PROCESS FOR TANNING LACE LEATHER. 

After your hides or skins have been made perfectly soft or 
pliant by soaking or milling, they are ready for the lime, 
the lime to be made in equal quantities of wood a-^hts and 
fresh burned lime, or potash dissolved in wat- r so as to muke 
a lye of the same strength wood ashes would make. H-ij*>i>3 
daily until the hair comes cff freely, say 2 bushels lime auu 
6 lbs. of potash. By warming your lime, not over milk 
warm, the hair will come off sooner, and not require much 
beating. They are then unhaired, rinsed and ready for the 



bate or grainer, the bate to be made of hen or pigjeon man- 
ure. The latter is the strongest. After being properly 
worked and rinsed in tresh water, the}^ are ready for the 
handler. For 20 hides or kips use the liquor made from any 
kind of oak bark, or l-t lbs. Terra Japonica (cutch), or lO 
lbs. extract hemlock as your coloring or tanning material, 
either of them to be dissolved in hot bark liquor or hot 
water. Then dissolve the following chemicals id hot water 
separately, viz.: 4 lbs. sulphate •Roda (Glanber salts), 1 lb. 
sulphate polayh, 2 lbs. alum, 1 lb. sulphur, 12 lbs. common 
salt. Mix your chemical and liquids for tanning, and it is 
ready for operation. Handle well. Keep your stock moving 
for two hours, and you will soon perceive how readily your 
stock will color and imbibe the tanning principle Then 
skive and shave them, then prepare another fiint quality 
liquor, add the same amount of chemicals and proceed as 
before for two hours longer, then slick them off lightly, 
leaving all the tanning in. When in o»^der, si uff thorn heavy 
on the flesh side. When dry, slick ott" the stiiffiing and tal- 
low them lightly on the grain, setting it well in, tallowing 
the^ame as the grain, only apply more anl set it well in. 
By pursuing this course it makes a superior urticle lo any 
thing that has been manufactured by anv niher process, and 
cheaper and manufactured with less woik 

TO DTE FURS BLACK, 

Take a pure solution of lunar costic (nitrate of silver) •. nd 
apply it to the dry fur with a fine ivoi) hnr e or ^'Vdoijen 
comb, and let it dry gradually in the air. Bo eareful fiot to 
let the costic touch the leather or get upon your finijjers. 

PROCESS FOR TANNING. 

After your hide(S or sifins have been niade p rfHctly soft or 
pliant by soaking or milling they are ready for the iime, ihe 
lime to be made in equal quantities of wood ysh«^s. Iret^h 
burned lime or potash dissolved in water so as to make a i} e 
of the same strength wood ashes would make, handle daily 
until the hair comes off freely, say 2 bush, lime and 6 lb.-. 



you make a very pliant and solid article, such as harness, 
bridle, upper and slaughter sole. I have been using the 
above for many years, varying it in all its proportions, and 
after much labor and expense believe I have rendered the art 
of tanning more simple and sure than has been done by any 
other process. The art of tanning to all intents is a chemi- 
cal operation, converting hungry gelatin into leather. 
Chemicals are positively necessary to convert a raw material 
into a splendid article of leather, and that, too, in a very 
short time much better, more desirable, more tough, weighty 
and handsomely grained than by any old system. No 
danger to be apprehended by hardening the stock when 
strong liquor and chemicals are used. Alter a lew experi- 
ments with the above a tanner can change the proportions 
from time to time as he proceeds, so as to produce an article 
to please himself. 

TO REMOVE THE GROWTH FROM PELT, 

As soon as the skin is fully cleaned smd made soft, cover 
the flesh side with any kind of good soap mixed with oue- 
twefth part of its own weight of good sal soda moistened 
suflSciently to mix well with the soap, fold the skin and 
leave it in a warm place till the growth will slip off easily, 
then rub it off by hand or beam it off with a wooden or iron 
beaming knife, if it be desired. The grain of the pelt can be 
decomposed so as to rub off with the growth, by leaving the 
soap and soda on for a longer time. No particular time for 
either can well be specified. Experience will be the only 
proper guide for this. The soap and soda should be rinsed 
out with weak starch water before using. 

TO DYE DEER OR SHEEP SKIN BIFF COLOR. 

After the skin is well tanned and finished smooth, did it 
for four hours in a warm solution of gum alves and alum 
brine, and then work it dry again. 

FOR, TANNING FURS, PELTRIES AND DEER Sh'INS. 

All pells, whether for furs or other peltries, or for leather 



potash. By warming your lime not over milk warm the hair 
will come oflf sooner, and not require much beating. They 
are then unhaired, rinsed and ready for the bate orgrainer, 
the bate to be made of hen or pigeon manure. The latter is 
the strongest. After being properly worked and rinsed in 
fresh water they are ready for the handler. For 100 calfskins 
or 20 hides use the liquor made from any kind of oak bstrk, 
or 25 lbs. bilonia, or 28 lbs. Terrajaponica, or 50 lbs. dividivi 
as your tanning material, either of them to bo dissolved in 
hot bark liquor or hot water. Then dissolve the following 
chemicals in hot water separately, viz.: 8 lbs. sulphate goda 
(Glanber salts), 2 Ins. sulphate potash, 2 lbs. ainm, 1 lb. 
sulphur, 12 lbs. common salt. Mix your chemicals and liquop 
for tanning, and it is ready for operation, handle well, kceo 
your stock moving for an hour, and you will soon perceivr 
bow readily your stock will color and imbibe the tanning 
principle. Keep them in liquor two days, handle often, but 
if you desire to operate speedily, change the liquor after the 
first day, then prepare another first quality liquor, add the 
same amount of chemicals ard proceed as before until 
perfectly tanned. You can tan by handly entirely, handle 
well and lay away an in the old method, running up your 
vat with strong liquor thoroughly saturated with chemicals, 
lot them ]-^y two weeks, draw, laying again as customary 
with ground burk, run up with No. 1 liquor and chemicals, 
let them lay a month or so on until perfectly tanned. In 
three rtionths you will find them tanned. The heaviest 
slaughter hides can be tanned in four months, having a 
handS'MTie bloom. Shoulders and bellies well filled with a 
firm texture commanding the highest market price. A tali- 
ner should always bear in mind that in all cases acids ha»'den 
and a'kalies sofien. White sulphates form a medium pliant 
Iciiiher In tanniritr, by judicious management, you can at 
nil limes mariuftictnre a superior article with little trouble, 
viz : For a soft quality of leather, such as enamelers use, use 
more potash in making your sulphate of potash and less 
acid. This, wiih other chemicals, make a very soli stock, 
bands(.melv irrainc'l. such ns enumcl'-rs u-^c. French cn!t" 
and sluephkii s, :irnl \\ an equal amount of alkali anr! «c'<), 



10 

must be well freed from all flesh, fat and other matter, by- 
being beamed with a knife or scraper, and then well scoured 
in suds of fine soap and sal soda before any tan stuff or 
coloring mfitter is applied. Care should also be exercised in 
freeing the pelt perfectly from suds by rinsing and wringing, 
and by beaming previous to tanning. When the pelt is 
well cleaned and scoured, as above directed, make a brine 
of common salt until no more will dissolve at blood heat; 
also prepare a like quantity of mucilage by passing very 
warm water through a fine sack filled with clean wheat 
bran; also dissolve a small quantiiy of good starch into warm 
water. Let the brine, mucilage and starch water settle till 
quite clear, then pour them carefully together into a wooden 
or earthen vessel of sufficient dimensions to give free motion 
to the pelts when stirred. Place the vessel where it will 
keep warm for two hours. Dip the pelts in clean, strong 
alum water at blood heat for two hours. Rinse the pelts 
free from alum water and wring or beara them dry as pos- 
sible. When all is ready pour iuto the mixture of brine and 
mucilage (still keep warm) a quantity of sulphuric acid (oil 
of vitrol) equal to one ounce of aci i to every two quarts of 
mixture, and put the pelts in as quickly a^ possible, and stir 
them briskly for tweoty-five miwutes. Take out the pelts 
and scrape and rinse and wring them fr^e from the tan stuff. 
Repeat this process by putting more acid into more mixture 
and stirring aj^ain for twenty minutes, and again rinse and 
scrape or beam drv as possible. Be careful to hive the mix- 
ture touch every partof each pelt. Let the pelts hang in a 
shady, airy place until just dry Hoouga lo turn while wr en 
palled or stretched in any direction, Continue the pulling and 
working of each pelt it) turn until quiiedry, without much i n- 
tenniMfsion, pulling thern first at the cdgrH, 'diid so inwirdly 
towards the centre or the pelt, changing the peU rouud and 
round, a-» it is pulled to keep the fibre subject to an even 
effect. Mich depends upon working the pelts at the ri'ght 
time, that is, when jnst dry enou 'h to turn white when pull- 
ed and by coniifjuing the process of working tully dry. 
When thepelt^are nearly o; qai te dry, they should bo beam- 



11 

ed over a plank or board «vith a sharp wcoden or dull iron 
beaming knife, and then finiMbed by polishing the leather 
side by the use of coarse files and sand paper. 

PI^OCESS OF WASHING. 

This IS a rery essential part of the tanning, and one of 
the greatest secrets of the procets, as the beauty of the 
goods depends upon the cleanliness of them. The washing 
compound is composed of soft water and soft soap, to which 
add 1 lb. sal soda to 1 bbl. of Hofi water. All kinds of skins 
rauwt be handled in the same way, and the water should be 
as warm as the hand will bear without scalding, so as the 
grease may be emovel q »iek tfom the skin, and it must be 
borne in mind that we have two substances to contend with, 
and they must both be made perfectly clean — that is the 
wool and the skin — in order to make good work. The skin 
should be scraped two or three times while washing, in 
order t© get out the jelston, which, if left in, is apt to »ender 
the skin hard. If this part of the work is properly done, 
there is no fear of the r( st, for the dye will work well on 
clean wool, and the tanr*ing is a perft-ct success on clean 
skins C^-nmon 8(>fo so ip will answer for washing jvll 
kinds ot colored skins and all fur bearing skins, except those 
dye'l or whitened by the bleaching process. For those we 
u^e the very best fine bar soap dissolved in hot water until 
quite ihiii, th n add to this liquid soap one oz. of Aquaam- 
moniu to every twu lbs. oi soap. 

No. I. --WHITE DTE OR BLEACHING PROCESS. 

When the skins are washed perfectly clean and the soap 
is all rinsed out, the solution is made by tuking four pails ()f 
iillt-rtd or pure water, a suffi. ier»t quantity to cover the 
article to be bleached or whitei»ed, a-* the intention of this 
proci'SM is to do one skin at a time. Tho following chemicals 
are to be added to water that forms the bleaching process: 
One Ih. of cornmou salt to each pail of water, 1 lb. of alum to 
every 4 lbs of salt, 1 lb of ^ulphuric acid, and from 2 to 4 
oz. ol waabing Boda. The acid must be put in small quauti* 



12 

ties; ^ of a lb. betore dippiDg the firat ekin. This must be 
well dissolved by stirring with a clean stiik or with the 
band. This quantity is sufficient to do from 6 t 10 >kiM8 
according to size, and wiil co-*t about 18 centH to mix ii it h * 
chemicAls are furnished at retail price, and at wholesale tr«*m 
10 to 12 cents. Each skin should be held over the tub lo 
drain, in order not to waste any of ihe »>iea'h Dg iHubsia re, 
and as soon as each skin is done dripping it is taken by ""ue 
end by the hand and snapped in o der lo sir* tch oui the 
wool arid thro «v oflf the bars and loose dirt that may be 
sticking to the wool, then eha »ge ends aJid snap as before, 
and in a short time the w ooi vvill be; >me q nie drv. Noa?, 
it is ready for the tanning process, and it hiiouM oe spread 
on a clean table where there is no dirt lo stick to the woid, 
wool side down and completely covered with the tanning on 
the flesh side. 

No, 2.— COLORING YELLOW. 

After the ykins are wa^hed clean in s ap and w tter as 
warm as the hand will bear and the soap ah rinsed out, they 
are now ready for dying. Take sufficient warm wa er, o" as 
rnvich as will cover the article, then dissolve 1 <.z. ot pieric 
Ncid in 1 gal. of boiling water. This is suiii lent to dye 8 or 
10 skins, then add \ of this acid to the water for the Hrst 
skins, then as each skin is dipped add a little more. If you 
have only one skin to dye of this color, of cojrse have ihe 
dye left, which can be kept in a bottle corked up, whch will 
keep for any length of time, and we use as a morder or p t 
for this color common alum, say 1 oz. of pulverized alum for 
each skin, and a little sulphuric acid may be used, a^* it 
makes the color brighter and more beautiful, say ^ lb. of this 
acid may be used in dy ng 6 t>kins by puit'ng in a little at a 
time in the dye tub, then it is to be rinsed as bef rearjd put 
on the table and tanned on the fleah side with r^ulphuric acid 
as before Said. All skins with the w..»ol or huir on should 
be bung with the wool side towaids the sun \n order 
to have them dry soft. When the wool is dry they ar3 to 
be taken on the flewhiug beam and woiked uu , and a second 



13 

coat of tanning applied. Skins should not be left in the Hun 
to get too dry, as it has a tendency to raaUe them hard. As 
soon a> the wool is dry they should be hung in the shade to 
tinir*h drying. When they are nearly dr^ they should have 
a thorou-h tanning in order to take the stretch out and 
render the ^kinssoft and flexible, and I will guarantee that 
one hou.'s labor is sufficient to do a common skin, and does 
not cost 10 cents for each skin. 

No. S'—TO COLOR MAJENTA, 

As this is a very peculiar dye, and is the only dye that 
will make a color for itself, consequently the color it not 
goo 1 and wtl not stand nor last but by using ommou lye to 
set it. the color will stand much better, say ^ a wine glass 
tull lo each bkin stirred in the water. Tnose skins are to be 
soaked in the same way and bandied the same, except the 
different color, and in tanning you must be very careful not 
to get the tanning on the wool. Tde dye should be dissolved 
in boiling hot water, \ oz. of dye in 2 qts. of watur. This is 
sufficient tn dye 3 skins by turning in \ as each skin is dyed 
m Buffirient water to cover the article, and the water should 
be as hot as the hand will bear in order to make the work 
qu ck and beautiful, and a skin dyed should be rinsed out 
ar er it lo ^)|^^^. betbre the tanning is put on. 

No. 4'-'R^D, 

This color should have 2 separate tubs, as the skin is first 
d3ed m>.jenta the same as af«,»resaid, then dyed yellow and 
rinsed and turned as before. 

No. ^,— BROWN. 

This color is made by taking catacue 1 lb. for each skin, 
to be dissolved in hot water and put into a tub with sufficient 
water to cover a skin. Before the skin goes in this color it 
should be dipped in lime water, say 2 lbs. of lime to 3 pails 
ol warer. Tnis sets the color so as it will never fade. Now 
th' rkin, after being dyed, requires a thorough washing in 
boap audti to Fonder the skin perfectly clean, and ttiuoed with 



14 

Bulpburic acid on the flesh side. 

No, b.— GREEN. 

This color is made by dying the skio yellow, then dyed in 
indjgo of f*ufficient streii^'ih to britig out a beautiful color, 
according to taste. Tht indigo comp lund in what nbould be 
used, because it is already dissolved. 

No. y.— TIPPING DYE. 

For dyeing furs is alt«o a good hair dve. Take nitraie of 
silver dissolved in water forms No. 1. Xo. 2 pieric a^-id ili**- 
solved in water, put \ oz. of t>ach in 2 oz ot water. T'h-h i^ 
to be put on with a trurh. Saturate the hair wth No 1, 
and wher dry put on No. 2 with a separate bru>h. Tl:en let 
dry and wash with soap suds and sponge. 

No. S,-H01V TO RESTORE COLORS. 

Blue, red, green, yelow, white or any of the>t' colors may 
be restored by taking .sufficient quantity of clean water to 
cover the article. Add to each pail ot water 1 lb. of clean 
salt, \ lb. of alum, ^ lb. ot sulphuric acid, 1 oz washing s d », 
4 drops of indigo compound stirred well with the hand. 
After the article is washed clean in goid ^uds it is to be im- 
mersed lu this mixture f-T a minute or two. Those color-^, 
though quite faded, wi 1 mU return as good as new. 

No. g.—HOW TO DRESS DEER SKINS OR OTHER SKINS 
TO IMITA TE DEER SKINS. 

First soak the skins until they are Hoft, in noap ^^d^, and 
flesh them same as other nkins. At this time they are 
ready for graining. The graining horse is made by taking 
hard wood pole 6 or 7 feet long, place 2 legs in this pi>!e close 
to one end to give it a standing po8iti(;ti, remove th^* hai k < ff 
the top side so as to make it perfectl}- ^moruh where the ski.i 
rests on it, The graining knife is made by t-king a common 
case knife and driving the edge into a round s ick of s >ft 
wood, either pine or cedar, of sufficier-t sizj to torm :i suitab'e 
handle, then grind the back of the knife sq lare on a grind 



16 

stone, forming a square edge, then the graif> and hair Is to be 
removed, p ensiDg witb ibis knite. After this i^s nccvi^itliyh- 
ed it is to be piaci-d in ?ait and water f »r 6 hour?*, iic^n it is 
to be burg up to dry ID ibe nb^do. It is now ready for 
dressing. Tbe dressiDg compound is made by taking 2 qts. 
of soft 80ap nnd 1 pi. o.' tanner's oil, mix well together, warm, 
rub suSicientiy quantity of this on tbe fle<«b eide of the skin 
to cover it ail over thorough I v, roll up and lot it lay from 6 
to 12 hours until the ^mixture goes through properly, then 
take the balance of the compound, mix it wiih warm water, 
enough to cov»r tbe sltin, work the skin in this until it be- 
comes perfectly soft, then dry tbe tskin, and when it is dry 
place it a£;ain on tbe fiat beam and take the ^tretch out witb 
a round pointed kn t'e, same as other skins. After the pkio 
is waibed clean, it is to be left in the suds until the wool slips 
off easily, then to be saturated with sulphuric acid and hung 
up in tbe shade until dry. 

HO IV TO MAKE SHEEP SKINS RUSETTS. 

Dissolve 5 lbs. Terrajaponica in three pails of beiling 
water, when cold add 5 pails of cold water. This will color 
a dozen skins. Handle occasionally until thoroughly colored 
to avoid spotting. About two days is sufficient time to bring 
out good leather. Take out the stretch the same as other 
skins, and apply a very little oil on the grain side. 

What is :he prime cost of taoning material for 100 lbs. of 
leather averaging 14 lbs. per side? 

When bark is $8 per cord it costs $5 per lOO lbs. The ex- 
tracts are preferable, as it is less cost of labor, leaching, 
grinding, etc. 

In looking over my records of packs of lea? her in tanning 
with Japonica and acid, we fiod in looking over 12 packs of 
barnei^s 329 sides consumed 2.765 lbs. of Japoitica, being 8 
lbs. 6^ 02. per side of aver.ge barnesM le.i her. T»i up^icr 
and heavy rip, bate nbave'l. per piecp, 4:^^ lbs- To calf and 
light kip per piece, 2 lbs. 2 oz , others added being only a few 
cents additional expense. Therefore, finding ihe true 
^4Ziouot of material to the average weight of tbe diff rent 



n: 



16 



kinds of stock, I find that to make tber answer to Sr M. Qean „ '^ 
&Son, East Randolph, N. iT., inquiring to pVodncp X'^ '\h^^. '' 
sides in the rough, it will-take seven sides or 210 lbs/ neat,, ^t 
beef hides to tpake 98 lbs; harness in. the rougb,.or wiiroiake/^ "i' 
105 lbf», finished harne'ss, requiring for thi^weigh-t. (7 sideS ix^ -^-l 
all)52ilb8, Japonica^8 lt)^;7io2. i^r:8i4e. .J^j^^p : '^'■[ii'<ifi] 

GREEN DYE ON WOOL AND SILK, 

Equal quantities of yellqw oak and hickony bark make a ^ 
strong yellow, both by boiling. Shade to the desired tint by.r'f^^/j 
adding a small quantity of extract of iodigp. . „ .?' r'*^! 



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